Recommended resources
The freely available resources this lesson will direct you to.
- How to draft a bodice block (or sloper) from your own measurements. Detailed step by step tutorial.www.youtube.com
- [DETAILED] HOW TO: MAKE BASIC BODICE BLOCK PATTERN | KIM DAVEwww.youtube.com
- How to Draft a Bodice Blockinthefolds.com
- Drafting the Bodice Front (Metric Version) - Dresspatternmakingdresspatternmaking.com
Welcome back to your pattern drafting course. In our last session, we completed the back bodice sloper by constructing the armhole and waist dart. You now have a complete pattern piece for the back, which is a significant milestone.
Today, we shift our focus to the front of the garment. This lesson will guide you through plotting and drawing the front neckline and the front shoulder slope. Drafting the front introduces more complexity than the back, primarily because it must accommodate the three-dimensional shape of the bust. The lines we establish today will serve as the crucial upper anchor points for the entire front pattern, so precision here is key. This process is much like establishing the primary structural grid in an architectural or industrial design project before detailing the interior spaces.
Plotting the Front Neckline Points
Just like on the back block, the front neckline is defined by its width and depth. We'll use standard formulas based on your neck measurement to establish these points on the drafting framework you've already created.
We'll refer to the excellent guide from In The Folds for these calculations. The logic ensures the neckline is proportional to your body.
This guide provides clear, formula-based instructions for locating the front neckline's width and depth points. Pay close attention to the small but important subtractions and additions in the formulas.
Please locate the section Construct the front neckline. For the neck width: Read the first step to establish point K. The formula is (Your Neck Measurement / 5) - 0.5cm. You will measure this distance from your Center Front line horizontally along the top edge of your block. For the neck depth: Read the next step to establish point L. The formula is Your Neck Measurement / 5. You will measure this distance down from the top edge along your Center Front line.
Apply these steps to your pattern paper:
- Mark Neck Width: On the top horizontal line of your front bodice framework, measure out from the Center Front line using the formula
(Neck Measurement / 5) - 0.5cm. Make a clear mark. This point defines how wide your neckline is. - Mark Neck Depth: On your vertical Center Front line, measure down from the top horizontal line using the formula
Neck Measurement / 5. Make a clear mark. This point defines how low the standard round neckline sits.
Plotting the Front Shoulder Slope
Now we need to define the angle and end-point of your shoulder. A common and reliable drafting convention is to relate the front shoulder slope to the back slope you've already drawn. The front shoulder typically sits slightly lower.
- Draw the Front Shoulder Slope Guideline: On your pattern, draw a new line that is parallel to your back shoulder slope line, but positioned 1.5 cm (about 5/8") lower. This will be your guideline for the front shoulder.
- Mark the Shoulder Point: Take your ruler and position the zero mark at the Neck Width point you just created. Pivot the ruler down until your exact Shoulder Length measurement touches the front shoulder slope guideline you drew in the previous step. Mark this intersection point. This is your front shoulder point.
You have now established the three critical points that define the upper edge of your front bodice: the neck depth, the neck width, and the shoulder tip.
Drawing the Neckline and Shoulder
With the key points plotted, we can now draw the final lines. This is where your French curve becomes essential for creating a professional and smooth neckline.
Drawing the Front Neckline Curve
The goal is to connect the neck width and neck depth points with a pleasing curve. However, there is one crucial technical detail that ensures a professional result.
Re-read the final part of the "Construct the front neckline" section. It contains a critical piece of advice for drawing curves that meet a "cut on fold" line like the Center Front.
Find the final paragraph of the section, which starts with "Join K to L". The text highlights that the curve of the neckline must meet the Center Front at a right angle.
This 90-degree rule is non-negotiable. If the curve meets the Center Front at an acute or obtuse angle, you will create a peak or a dip in the center of your finished garment's neckline. For the first 1-2 cm, your curve should be perfectly perpendicular to the Center Front line before sweeping upwards to meet the neck width point.
Drawing the Front Shoulder Line
This step is more straightforward. You will simply draw a straight line connecting the two points you've already defined.
Your pattern should now clearly show the upper boundary of your front bodice. Take a moment to admire the work—these few lines are the foundation for the entire shape of the front of your top.
Key Takeaways
In this lesson, we began drafting the front bodice sloper, focusing on its upper contours. You have successfully:
- Plotted the front neckline points using proportional formulas to determine the correct width and depth.
- Established the front shoulder slope by referencing the back pattern and your specific shoulder length measurement.
- Drawn the front neckline curve, applying the critical rule of maintaining a 90-degree angle at the Center Front for a smooth, professional finish.
- Drawn the straight front shoulder line, completing the upper edge of the pattern piece.
Next Steps
The upper framework is now in place, but the pattern is still flat. In our next lesson, we will introduce three-dimensional shaping by drafting the front side-bust dart and the front waist dart. These darts are the tools we use to mold the fabric to the curves of the body, and they are essential for achieving a good fit.