Ancient Lip Coloring: From Mesopotamia to Rome

The Dawn of Lip Color: Mesopotamia

The story of lipstick as we know it begins not in the 20th century, but over 5,000 years ago in Mesopotamia, the "cradle of civilization." The Sumerians, who inhabited this region, were among the first to develop a passion for lip coloring.

To understand these origins, please read the following brief article from The Historian's Magazine. It provides a detailed look at the earliest archaeological evidence of lip paint and its role in Mesopotamian society.

As you've read, lip coloring in Mesopotamia was far from a casual practice. It was a potent symbol of social standing.

• A Mark of Luxury: The practice is traced back to Sumerian Queen Puabi (also referred to as Schub-ad) around 3500 BCE, who used a mixture of crushed red rocks (hematite) and white lead. This was not an everyday item; it was a luxury commodity. The fact that elites were buried with their lip paints, stored in shells or even precious metal containers, underscores its value.
• Worn by Men and Women: Excavations show that in later Assyrian society, both men and women of the upper classes wore these pigments.
• Ritual Significance: The use of bright red may also have been tied to religious ritual, possibly in devotion to Inanna, the powerful Sumerian goddess of love, war, and fertility.

This era established a lasting theme: the connection between red lips, wealth, and power.

Power and Pigments in Ancient Egypt

From Mesopotamia, the practice of self-adornment flourished in ancient Egypt, where cosmetics were deeply integrated into daily life, spirituality, and the afterlife. For the Egyptians, beauty was a sign of holiness and was not considered a frivolity.

Famous for her intellect and political power, Queen Cleopatra VII is also historically remembered for her use of cosmetics. Her red lipstick, in particular, was a key part of her commanding image.

The article "A History of Red Lipstick" offers a nuanced look at how Cleopatra's use of lip color was perceived.

In Egypt, the significance of lip color was twofold:

1. Symbol of Power: For royalty like Cleopatra, lipstick was an assertion of status and divine authority. Her preferred pigment was carmine, a vibrant and costly red dye.
2. Symbol of Seduction: As the reading highlights, this power was also seen as dangerous and seductive. Cleopatra's knowledge of cosmetics was linked to a powerful, almost magical allure that was viewed with both fascination and suspicion.

So, what were these ancient pigments actually made of? To get a better sense of the materials, watch this short segment from the following video.

As the video shows, the key ingredients were natural but required significant effort to process:

• Carmine: A bright red dye made from crushing cochineal insects, which were imported from Mesopotamia.
• Red Ochre: A naturally occurring clay pigment, which was washed, dried, and ground into a powder.

Status and Style in the Roman Empire

As the Roman Empire rose to dominance, it absorbed and adapted many cultural practices from the regions it conquered, including Egypt and Greece. Lip coloring became a prominent marker of social standing in the bustling, status-conscious society of Rome.

The use of lipstick in Rome is detailed in both of the articles we've consulted. Let's look at the final part of the "Ancient History" section in Sara Long's article.

In Rome, the primary function of lip paint was to signal one's social rank.

• A Non-Gendered Status Symbol: Unlike today, lip color was not exclusive to women. Men and women of the upper echelons used it to signify their position. The color, not the wearer's gender, was the message.
• The Imperial Elite: Empress Poppaea Sabina, wife of Emperor Nero, is a famous example. She reportedly employed a large staff of slaves, known as cosmetae, solely to maintain her appearance and ensure her lips were always perfectly painted.
• Ingredients and Dangers: Romans used pigments like ochre and iron ore. Some formulations, however, contained fucus, a type of seaweed that could be poisonous, highlighting the risks people took for beauty. Purple-red hues were especially prized, as purple dye was astronomically expensive and the ultimate symbol of imperial power.

Conclusion

In this lesson, we have uncovered the ancient origins of lipstick, tracing its use and meaning through three great civilizations.

Key Takeaways:

• Mesopotamia: Lip coloring emerged over 5,000 years ago as a luxury item and status symbol for the elite, worn by both men and women. It was made from materials like crushed red minerals.
• Egypt: Cosmetics were central to life and religion. Red lips, particularly on figures like Cleopatra, symbolized divine power but also carried connotations of a dangerous, potent seductiveness. Carmine and red ochre were key ingredients.
• Rome: Lip paint was a clear, non-gendered marker of social class. The color and quality of one's lip paint directly communicated wealth and rank within the empire's strict hierarchy.

Across the ancient world, red was the color of power. It was sourced from the earth and from insects, worn by queens and emperors, and buried with the wealthy as a prized possession.

Preview of the Next Lesson

The fall of the Roman Empire and the rise of Christianity in Europe would dramatically shift cultural attitudes. In our next and final lesson, we will explore how cosmetics went from being celebrated to being condemned during the Middle Ages, and then trace lipstick's slow revival and eventual explosion into a global, mass-market phenomenon in the 20th century.