Hello! Welcome to the final lesson in our module, "Pen-and-Paper Charting Essentials."
In the past two lessons, you've assembled your complete toolkit for designing doilies by hand. First, you learned to draft a precise radial grid with a compass and ruler, creating your design canvas. Then, you developed a personal symbol key, giving you the visual language to populate that canvas.
Today, we bring it all together. You will apply the mathematical principles of circular expansion to chart the first few rounds of a basic motif. This is the moment where theory becomes practice, and your grid and symbols come to life to form the beginnings of a design. By the end of this lesson, you will have translated an increase formula into a visual chart, completing your foundational skill set for circular pattern design.
The Formula for a Flat Circle
Before you can draw your chart, you need to know what to draw. The foundational principle of crocheting a flat circle is that you must add a consistent number of stitches in each round to accommodate the expanding circumference. If you add too many, the work will ruffle; too few, and it will cup.
The number of stitches you need to add is directly related to the height of the stitch you're using. Taller stitches are wider, so they require more initial stitches to form a circle and more stitches added per round to keep it flat.
How to Make a Perfectly Flat Crochet Circle
Let's start with the practical rules. The article 'How to Make a Perfectly Flat Crochet Circle' from B'Hooked Crochet provides a clear, straightforward guide to the 'magic numbers' needed for different stitches.
Please read the sections 'How Many Stitches to Start a Crochet Circle' and 'Crochet Circle Increasing Formula'. Focus on the table that lists the starting stitch counts for single, half-double, and double crochet. The key takeaway is the main formula: The number of stitches in the first round is how many stitches you need to increase in every round.
This simple rule is your most important guideline. To summarize:
- Single Crochet (sc): Start with 6 stitches, add 6 stitches per round.
- Half Double Crochet (hdc): Start with 8 stitches, add 8 stitches per round.
- Double Crochet (dc): Start with 10 stitches, add 10 stitches per round.
But why does this work? The logic is rooted in the geometry of a circle, specifically the relationship between its radius and circumference, .
The Math Behind A Crochet Circle & Why It Matters #crochet #crocheting #mathematics #stem
For a deeper look at the mathematics, the video 'The Math Behind A Crochet Circle' from Crafters Autonomous does an excellent job of explaining the connection between Pi and crochet stitches.
Watch from 05:21 to 10:50 and again from 13:55 to 16:50. The video approximates Pi as 3, which simplifies the formula to C ≈ 6r. It then cleverly relates the circle's 'radius' to the height of your stitches and the 'circumference' to the width of your stitches. This explains why a single crochet circle, where stitch height is roughly equal to width, expands by 6 stitches per round. The second segment applies this same logic to taller stitches like double crochet.
You might notice a discrepancy between sources (e.g., some suggest 12 dc for a starting round, others 10). This happens because the ratio of stitch height to width is an approximation and can vary with yarn, hook size, and personal tension. For your own designs, the key is to choose one formula (e.g., start with 12 dc, increase by 12 dc each round) and use it consistently.
From Formula to Chart: Placing the Increases
Knowing you need to add, say, 12 stitches per round is only half the battle. You also need to know where to place them. For a circle to be symmetrical, the increases must be distributed evenly. This creates wedges or segments, and the number of segments is equal to the number of stitches in your first round.
This is where your radial grid is indispensable. The lines radiating from the center serve as the guidelines for your increase points.
How to Make a Perfectly Flat Crochet Circle
The B'Hooked Crochet article also explains the standard method for distributing these increases.
Read the sections 'Basic Crochet Circle Pattern', 'Evenly Space Increases to Crochet a Flat Circle', and 'Basic Crochet Circle: Rounds 3 and Up'. Pay attention to the pattern of how many single stitches are worked between each increase. You'll see it increases by one each round.
The standard method is as follows:
- Round 1: stitches.
- Round 2: Increase in every stitch.
[Inc]repeated times. - Round 3: Work 1 stitch, then an increase.
[1 st, Inc]repeated times. - Round 4: Work 2 stitches, then an increase.
[2 sts, Inc]repeated times. - Round 5: Work 3 stitches, then an increase.
[3 sts, Inc]repeated times.
The Problem with Stacking: Circles vs. Polygons
If you follow this method perfectly, your increases will stack one on top of the other in each round. While this is mathematically correct, it has a distinct visual side effect: it creates a polygon (a hexagon for single crochet, a decagon for double crochet) rather than a perfectly smooth circle.
For many designs this is perfectly fine, but for a truly round shape, we can use a simple trick: staggering the increases.
Crochet Perfect Circle Tutorial & Why this Technique Works
The article 'Crochet Perfect Circle Tutorial' from The Loophole Fox explains this concept beautifully. It shows why stacking increases creates points and how offsetting them creates a smoother edge.
Read the sections 'The Basics of Crocheting a Flat Circle & WHY it Turns into a Hexagon', 'What change do we make...', and 'Why does staggering the increases work?'. The geometric comparison to polygons is particularly insightful. This is a subtle but powerful technique for refining your designs.
The technique involves shifting the placement of increases on alternate rounds so they don't align perfectly. We will put this into practice in our charting exercise.
Activity: Charting Your First Motif
It's time to put pen to paper. For this exercise, we will chart the first four rounds of a double crochet circle that starts with 12 stitches.
You will need:
- Your radial grid from the first lesson. A 12-segment grid (with lines every 30 degrees) is ideal for this. If you need a fresh one, you can print the polar graph paper below.
- Your hand-drawn symbol key from the previous lesson.
- A pencil and eraser.

Here is a visual example of what a finished chart for a small motif looks like. Notice how the stitches are organized into rounds and how they build upon the previous round.

Let's begin. We'll use your symbol for a double crochet (T with one hash mark) and a slip stitch (●).
-
Round 1: (12 sts)
- Begin with a magic ring in the center.
- Chart 12 double crochet stitches emerging from the center ring. Place one
dcsymbol so that its post aligns with each of the 12 radial lines on your grid. - Finish by drawing a
sl stsymbol connecting to the top of the firstdc.
-
Round 2: (24 sts)
- The formula is to increase in every stitch (
[Inc]x 12). - In the next concentric circle of your grid, chart an increase (two
dcsymbols) into the top of each stitch from Round 1. The twodcsymbols of each increase should originate from a single point on the stitch below. - When you are done, each of your 12 radial lines should have an increase centered on it.
- The formula is to increase in every stitch (
-
Round 3: (36 sts)
- The formula is one stitch, then an increase (
[1 dc, Inc]x 12). This is a "standard" round where we stack the increases. - Your increases from Round 2 consist of two stitches. In the first of these two stitches, chart one
dc. In the second stitch, chart an increase (twodcs). - Repeat this for all 12 segments. Your increases in this round should align perfectly with the increases from Round 2, right on top of your radial grid lines.
- The formula is one stitch, then an increase (
-
Round 4: (48 sts) - Staggered!
- The standard formula would be
[2 dc, Inc]repeated 12 times. To stagger, we will split the two "plain" stitches. - The pattern becomes:
1 dcat the beginning of the round, then[Inc, 2 dc]repeated 11 times, then1 dcat the very end of the round. - To chart this:
- Start by charting one
dcin the first stitch of the round. - In the next stitch, chart an increase.
- In the next two stitches, chart one
dceach. - Repeat steps 2 and 3 all the way around.
- You'll find that after your last increase, you have one stitch left before the start of the round. Chart one
dcin that final stitch.
- Start by charting one
- Now, look at your chart. The increases in Round 4 should fall between the radial grid lines, not on top of them. You have successfully staggered your increases!
- The standard formula would be
Test your understanding!
You've decided to design a doily center using single crochet (sc) instead of double crochet (dc). You start with 6 sc in Round 1. What would be the stitch counts for Rounds 2, 3, and 4? And what would the standard (non-staggered) repeat be for Round 4?
Show answer
-
Stitch Counts:
- Round 1: 6 sc
- Round 2: 12 sc (6 + 6)
- Round 3: 18 sc (12 + 6)
- Round 4: 24 sc (18 + 6)
-
Standard Repeat for Round 4:
The pattern is[N-2 stitches, Inc], where N is the round number. For Round 4, this is[2 sc, Inc]. You would repeat this sequence 6 times to get your 24 stitches.
Conclusion
Congratulations! You have successfully integrated all the skills from this module to create your first piece of a circular chart. You've not only learned the "what" and "how" of charting but also the "why" behind the formulas.
Key Takeaways:
- A flat circle's growth is governed by a formula derived from stitch geometry: add the same number of stitches each round as you started with.
- Charting this formula involves systematically placing stitches and increases on a radial grid.
- The placement of increases matters: stacking them creates a polygon, while staggering them creates a truer circle.
- Your hand-drawn grid and symbol key are the essential tools for translating these mathematical rules into a visual pattern.
You are now fully equipped to start designing. In our next module, "Designing the Central Medallion," we will move from these basic mechanics to making creative choices. We'll begin by exploring the different ways to start a circle—the magic ring versus a chain loop—and how that first choice influences the aesthetic of your entire doily.